Posted by: sunnyharvy | December 6, 2013

Truth or Consequences

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Our breakfast view of Caballo Lake.

Mid-morning we drove up the road to Truth or Consequences, New Mexico. Other than mineral hot springs, we didn’t know what to expect. We were hoping to find a funky cafe or coffee shop  and it didn’t take long to find exactly what we had hoped for…

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Can’t pass up a place with a name like that!

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Some customers enjoying the funky ambiance and delicious pastries.

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haRVy parked across the street.

Next up was a soak in the hot mineral springs that made this town semi-famous (besides its name of course). I did some research online and chose the Riverbend Hot Springs because it is the only one with outdoor springs overlooking the Rio Grande River. Yes, the same Rio Grande I’ve been writing about for over a week now. It seems to be everywhere we go!

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This small family owned spa is a serene retreat that we would highly recommend.

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Truth or Consequences wasn’t on our original itinerary, but we’re glad we took the detour to check it out. I would love to do a photo essay book on the characters who live in T or C (as the locals call it). I am absolutely sure that each member of this very eclectic populace has interesting stories to tell!

After our relaxing soak we reluctantly hit the road again. We drove to Deming, New Mexico where we boondocked at the St. Clair Winery, after tasting and purchasing some fine wine. The winery is a member of Harvest Hosts, which we highly recommend to any RV travelers. For a small annual fee, you get to park overnight at all sorts of farms, wineries, museums, and other attractions across the country.

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After a very quiet night and good sleep, high winds woke us early once again. We had checked the forecast the night before and thought we’d be OK if we got an early start, but the gusts started as soon as the sun rose over the horizon. The winds howled for the entire 4+ hour drive to Tucson, AZ, but Al did a terrific job behind the wheel! As each big truck came along side us to pass, he would feather the steering wheel towards them and then back away from them after they pulled ahead. He says that putting the necessary pressure on the wheel to keep going straight in the wind gusts feels much like sailing a boat with weather helm. Who would have thought that our sailing experience would come in handy on the highway! We had previously been apprehensive about driving haRVy in windy conditions because he is so tall, but this day gave us more confidence in his stability.

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The road to Arizona, our 17th state.

We arrived at our friend Max’ house by mid-afternoon and Al immediately laid down for a nap. Later Max cooked us a delicious pasta dinner, which (along with a bit of wine) helped us put the worries of the day behind us. We are happy to be staying in one place for a few days after covering so many miles recently and are grateful for friends like Max who welcome us warmly. The only thing that is not warm is the weather. We keep hoping the next destination will be better, but we’re still looking (and hoping). Southern California here we come!

Posted by: sunnyharvy | December 2, 2013

The Joys of West Texas

We had dreaded driving across Texas until we got about half way across and discovered the most southerly and western parts of this diverse state. Here is a taste of what we discovered after our week along the Rio Grande.

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The eclectic and entertaining town of Marfa, which is literally in the middle of nowhere.

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We enjoyed a gourmet dinner out at Maiya’s, shown at left above in this restored historic building.

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And spent the night camped out at the official viewing area for Marfa’s Mystery Lights. Although we tried our best, we did not see them…

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Many hours were spent on roads like this while random sights such as the following broke up the monotony.

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I could spend a month photographing the roadside treasures in far western region of Texas.

We spent one brief night in Guadalupe Mountain National Park. Unfortunately, windy conditions kept us from getting a good night’s sleep and predictions of even heavier (damaging) gusts provoked a sunrise departure. Driving down the notorious pass was a bit dicey, but once we got back into the high desert plains there was virtually no breeze to speak of and we both breathed a sigh of relief.

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A genuine Mexican lunch including Carne Asada and Carnitas was provided by La Salsa Restaurant in El Paso.

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We are now camped along the shores of Caballo Lake near Truth or Consequences, New Mexico (our 16th state!). And YES, the town did name itself after the popular 1950’s TV Show. We hope to visit their famous hot springs tomorrow before getting back on our westward track towards California for the holidays.

Posted by: sunnyharvy | December 2, 2013

More Big Bend Adventures

After four nights at the Rio Grande Village Campground in the southeastern corner of Big Bend National Park, we headed over to Cottonwoods in the more remote southwestern corner. This lovely little (only 25 sites) campground has virtually no facilities, but it is nestled under a beautiful grove of Cottonwood trees next to the Rio Grande. Because of its location, and the fact that it does not allow generators, most of the campers are laid-back friendly folks who truly appreciate the natural setting.

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Our site with one of the many fascinating geologic features in the background.

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The view from my pillow through the skylight just after sunrise.

One of the primary reasons for moving our base camp was so we could explore the magnificent Santa Elena Canyon, which we did on foot and in our kayaks. Both proved a bit more challenging than we anticipated.

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This trail triggered Al’s acrophobia, so I continued on alone…

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and captured this photo of the canyon through which we would paddle the next day.

You will have to wait for Al to edit and process the video footage to get the full story, but suffice it to say that the Park Rangers who issued us permits to paddle UP the Rio Grande against a fairly stiff current, overestimated our ability to do so. Much of the two+ hours it took to get to the canyon from the put-in was spent carrying or dragging our boats across rocky terrain. In the end, the extraordinary experience of paddling between sheer walls rising over fifteen hundred feet was worth the effort.

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Getting ready to paddle again after carrying past several hundred feet of rapids.

View Al’s video here.

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Entering Santa Elena Canyon.

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We were so exhausted by the time we actually got into the canyon, that we were unable to get past the turn you see ahead in this photo.

The segment we did do, however, is reportedly the narrowest and most spectacular.

View Al’s video here.

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Coasting back out of the canyon.

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Floating downstream to take-out. Riding the current back took less than a half an hour.

View Al’s video here.

One of our simpler outings in this area of the park was a short hike around the site of what used to be a family ranch. Before the 800,000+ acres became a national park, many ranches dotted the landscape.

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After a week full of adventures and pleasures, we reluctantly departed Big Bend National Park. However, there was still much to see on our way out.

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Multiple layers of geology.  That is the opening to Santa Elena Canyon in the distance.

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Scenic drive along the Rio Grande after we left the park heading west toward Presidio, TX.

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Just couldn’t resist this roadside rest stop with three tee-pees built by the Texas DOT.

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Posted by: sunnyharvy | November 28, 2013

On the Rio Grande

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The temperatures remain cool here in Big Bend National Park with lows in the mid 20’s (pity all the folks tent-camping!) and highs mostly in the 50’s, but the bright sunshine warms us as we hike trails in the Boquillas Canyon…

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and Chisos Mountains…

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and paddle on the Rio Grande between Mexico and America.

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No border patrol here because the Mexican side here is extremely remote with no paved roads. This guys is coming across to monitor and restock his “gift shops” shown below. Proceeds supposedly help the school on the Mexican side of the border…

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There are MANY more photos to share of this spectacular place, but it’s time to have another adventure on the other side of the park.

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We end each day with an incredible show of stars through the skylight over our heads. This is officially one of the darkest places in America. Truly spectacular, but unfortunately impossible to photograph and share.

Posted by: sunnyharvy | November 27, 2013

Weathering the Storm

For those of you who have been asking how we weathered the storm, watch this video clip.

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The video footage was taken less than 30 miles from the Mexican border! It is still freezing cold at night here at Big Bend National Park, which is right ON the border. We NEVER expected this way down here. Would you?

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Days are now beautiful and sunny, though still on the chilly side. We are getting out to enjoy each and every one of them. Will paddle on the Rio Grande this afternoon as soon as our laundry is done.

Posted by: sunnyharvy | November 26, 2013

Westward Ho!

I haven’t posted in a week because we’ve been a little busy trying to make some headway in a westerly direction while dodging a huge weather front and having some fun…but I’m getting ahead of myself.

We left New Orleans, LA bright and early ( for us that’s 10:30 am) to head through Bayou Country along routes 90 and 82 (definitely NOT Interstate highways!). Got off the highway for lunch and came upon this gas station before stopping for lunch along the Teche Bayou in Franklin, LA. Except for the occasional former plantation house, this is pretty typical architecture for the area.

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Right across the street from where we parked to have lunch in haRVy, we saw this sign and just had to investigate. The curator was more than pleased to show us their collection of Civil War artifacts, including many from the Union Army. We got quite a lesson from him. Not sure we agree with his opinion on everything, but very interesting none-the-less.

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We camped that night near Abbeville, LA at the Palmetto Island State Park, which proved to be a delightful surprise. Very quiet and pretty. The “island” is not land surrounded by water but a large grove of palmettos surrounded by fields and swamps. A much appreciated benefit at all the Louisiana State Parks is free use of the laundry services. It’s amazing how much something so simple can make such a difference.

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The next day we drove along the Gulf where the oil industry is very much in evidence with derricks, both on and offshore, tank farms, and pipelines running seemingly everywhere. We took a brief ferry ride (free for seniors) across one of their shipping channels and arrived in Port Arthur, Texas (our 15th state!) late afternoon. Not liking the feel of the area, we ventured on to Baytown where we parked overnight at Walmart.

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The drive through Houston on Interstate Route 10 was very hectic and stressful even though we timed our passage through to occur after rush hour. Very happy that Al was at the wheel! It got more civilized as we got closer to San Antonio, but we are both glad we usually choose to avoid major highways. Arrived at that evening’s home for the night, the Texas Aviation Museum at the Stinson Airport with plenty of time to view their collections, take a bike ride around the area, and watch several private plans and helicopters take off and land before dark.

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That night we learned about the horrendous weather heading our way. There didn’t seem to be any way around it, but we decided to take roads further south to our next destination to the west – Big Bend National Park – where we hoped we might dodge the worst of it. We were not entirely successful at doing so, but you’ll have to wait until my next post to read all about that.

We have experienced lots of ups and downs in temperatures over the past few weeks and experienced another one while in San Antonio. One evening we are working up a sweat while riding our bikes in tee shirts and the next morning we’re bundled up in hoodies and jackets because the temps had dropped into the 40’s. Unfortunately, this cold front was going to stay with us for a while.

Although the forecast called for rain, we felt obliged to visit The Alamo while we were in San Antonio and it proved an interesting diversion from worrying about the weather.

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After our visit to The Alamo we headed a few miles west to stay at our first military campground at Lackland Air Force Base. Al is allowed to do this as a retired DOD employee. Not a beautiful place, but we were happy to take advantage of the hot showers and laundry facilities.

On the road again to Del Rio, we saw this sign – “Hitchhikers May Be Escaping Inmates” – not that we were planning to pick any up, but I guess that’s good to know! This portion of our journey featured lesser traveled (more relaxed driving) roads through the wide open spaces we expected in Texas. Stayed the night at Loughlin Air Force Base for free since we couldn’t find anyone to register with. This close to the Mexican border we felt secure within the confines of a military base.

We are now enjoying all that Big Bend National Park has to offer and that’s a lot spread out in a space larger than the State of Rhode Island. A full report will follow. We can only access the Internet by driving to the campground store so it’s a bit less convenient.

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