Travels with haRVy

We have been touring the amazing coast of Northern and Central California since entering the state from Oregon on January 22nd. Not many get the opportunity to spend that much time exploring Route 1 and we enjoyed every moment… perhaps even more than any other segment of this extensive journey.

We made a few more stops before (sadly) leaving the Pacific behind.

Moonstone Beach

The strong offshore wind blew the tops off the waves.

This “wavebow” was much more brilliant than what shows in this photo. Fun to see, but difficult to capture.

 Morro Bay

Harbor-side boondock

Heading inland via Route 166.

The highlight of “downtown” New Cuyama.

Free primitive camping off Route 33 on NFS land.

Early morning full moon setting over the foothills.

We’re not at the beach anymore!

Beautiful Ojai Valley

We are now taking a break at our turn-around spot in Camarillo, CA, where my brother and his wife are graciously hosting us again. We’re using this time to work on our taxes and other tasks that are difficult to complete while driving and sightseeing everyday. Once we are caught up, we will head to the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains to travel Route 395 north. Our summer destination is British Columbia, Alaska and The Yukon. We will miss the beaches, but I’m sure there will be lots of interesting sights to fill the void. Stay tuned.

McWay Falls at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Did the above photo get your attention? Pretty amazing scene, isn’t it? Yes, the water really is turquoise, much like the Caribbean. Unfortunately, there is no safe way to get down to the beautiful beach. Of course, that is part of its intrigue. Both the falls and the point from which this photo was taken have an interesting story, which you can read by following the links provided above.

View in the opposite direction (to the north) from the same lookout.

After another brilliant day of touring the Big Sur coast, we grabbed the last site available at Kirk’s Creek Campground, which included an expansive ocean view up the coast.

Watching the sun set.

Morning view from upstairs bedroom window.

Small rocky beach accessible from campground.

Wild Columbine

Kirk Creek, the campground’s namesake, where it flows into the ocean.

Sand Dollar Beach, one of the largest sandy beaches in Big Sur, lies just five miles south of the campground. We walked along the bluff above as well as the length of the beach to the cave at the far end.

Next up was a short hike up Salmon Creek to view some picturesque pools and a triple waterfall. Unfortunately, it was very difficult to attain a good angle for photographing the falls.

Al rock hopping his way upstream.

The best shot I was able get of the falls.

Our last view of the Big Sur Coast from Ragged Point.

Al drowning his sorrows about having to leave this beautiful area with an afternoon treat.

Often referred to as one of the most scenic drives in America, Route 1 through Big Sur did not disappoint. If you ever have the opportunity to drive this section, take your time and stop often. Spend at least three days between San Simeon and Carmel, if at all possible, a week would be even better!  I have traveled through a few times before, but until now I did not have enough time to truly savor the experience. This journey proved deeply satisfying.

“Travel the route that hugs the California coast, providing access to austere, windswept cypress trees, fog-shrouded cliffs and the crashing surf of the Pacific Ocean. Views include rugged canyons, towering redwoods, sea lions, and other marine life,” says the American Byways website.

Our first stop, on another excellent recommendation from Marti and Peter, was at Point Lobos State Nature Reserve, just south of Carmel. Long considered the “crown jewel” of the California State Park system, it is a magnet for nature lovers the world around. Luckily we arrived early in the day as parking is quite limited. We snagged a spot in the lot at Whaler’s Cove where we enjoyed breakfast and lunch on either side of a gorgeous hike around the north shore of the park. Later we moved to a more central lot to hike along the south shore. When we departed mid-afternoon, there were dozens of cars parked along the highway outside the park entrance.

 Along the north shore hike.

Just a few sea lions basking in the sun along the south shore.

Originally built in 1851, this abalone fisherman’s cabin has been lovingly restored and serves as a small museum and info center near Whaler’s Cove.

A baby otter being groomed by her mother.

The weather turned a little damp, so we spent two nights camped out at Pfeiffer State Park where we managed to get in a couple of short hikes between rain showers. The forecast for the rest of the week predicted abundant sunshine and warmth. We have been incredibly fortunate this winter as the California coast seems to be enjoying the most pleasant weather in North America.

The one-lane road to Pfeiffer State Beach.

Thankfully not too hazardous the day we visited.

Purple sand… never seen that before!

Looking back from the beach.

To be continued…

We have visited Monterey, CA before so we made just a quick 24-hour stop this time around. We walked around the historic (but touristy) Cannery Row area and then took a bike ride along the beautiful Pacific Grove coastline.

 All the old sardine factory buildings now house tacky gift shops, restaurants, as well as an aquarium.

Examples of the shacks the sardine factory workers used to live in.

Based on a recommendation from Marti and Peter, as well as other fellow travelers, we decided to take a break from the coast to head over to Pinnacles, America’s newest national park. On our way we stopped at the historic village of San Juan Batista.

Need some religion? Check out the mission.

A place to stay perhaps?

Or, how about some property?

The drive to Pinnacles National Park along Route 25 was extremely picturesque and reminiscent of the Old California often depicted in paintings and movies. Miles of green rolling hills dotted with oak trees, expansive ranches with grazing cattle, and a gentle country road with NO traffic!

Our first glimpse of the actual pinnacles.

After a nice quiet night in the campground, we packed a lunch and headed out for a hike, which turned out to be one of our best ever. We traveled up through rock caves, had lunch next to a reservoir built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, and hiked back down the rim trail where views and wildflowers were abundant.

Al commented, “It’s a bit like Joshua Tree on steroids.”

The caves here were mostly formed by rocks falling into, and getting caught in, narrow gorges.

Headlamps required here.

To provide scale I include people in the photos above and below. Can you see them?

Hurray – it’s wild flower season again!

Panoramic of reservoir and pinnacles by Al – click to view larger.

 We continue to be astounded by the miles and miles of sandy beaches on California’s famed Route 1. It would take years to visit every one of them!

Along the way we made a brief stop to visit Pigeon Point Lighthouse, which is awaiting restoration.

We pulled into Santa Cruz on a busy Saturday afternoon and what a spectacle it was! A juvenile surf contest dominated the scene with a professional announcer calling all the plays over a loudspeaker, but the parade of people passing by also provided plenty of entertainment. Cheery homeless bums and colorful skateboarding kids joined wealthy dog walkers and families… we watched them for hours. I’m only sorry I didn’t video tape some of it. Could certainly make a movie about the California lifestyle here on any sunny weekend afternoon.

With some trepidation, I sent an email to a couple we met briefly at a campground in Death Valley over a year ago. They had said we could camp at their Corralitos, CA home if we ever got to the area. They responded positively and accepted our visit graciously. We spent three nights perched in their driveway overlooking Monterey Bay and the vast Pacific Ocean. Views don’t get any better than theirs! It’s even too big to fully capture in a photograph.

 Marti and Peter gave a us an afternoon tour around the Santa Cruz area. This is the beach at Natural Bridge State Park.

Creating sand art has become quite popular out here.

 A raft of seals and the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk, California’s oldest surviving (1907) amusement park.

Never seen so many hummers in one place before!

Goodbye Marti & Peter. We had a great visit with you. Thanks for everything! Hope our paths cross again somewhere down the road.

Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge with some feelings of sadness as we so enjoyed the Northern California coast.

More views of the bridge. This time from the southern end. Just can’t stop taking photos of it.

Nice that the flowers match the bridge color, eh?

Last one, I promise…time to move on.

We turned right immediately after crossing the bridge to explore Lands End, the ruins of the Sutro Baths, and the Cliff House. Some fascinating history in this area, if you care to follow the links.

On March 14, 1896, the Sutro Baths were opened to the public as the world’s largest indoor swimming pool establishment.

This little fellow seemed to be posing for me.

Heading a bit further south along the coast, our next overnight was a beach-side boondock in Pacifica. We rather liked the area of this town that was right around the public fishing pier. It was a bit rundown, but the people were very friendly. The next day we did our laundry and I found a hair salon that was able to take care of my unruly hair, which I was very grateful for. Thank you Amanda!

Gotta love what rust can do, especially with some carefully applied seagull guano.

Half Moon Bay State Park where we walked the beach and rode a beautiful bike trail along the bluffs.

Bike trail