Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 28, 2012

More fun on the Bay of Fundy

We got up early to do laundry, pump out, fill water tanks, get WiFi access and check out of the campground. Nearby Point Wolf provided a lovely hike down through the forest on a boardwalk and many wooden staircases to another incredibly deep beach.

We had lunch in Alma (gateway to Fundy National Park) at The Octopus’ Garden with our new friends from Colorado. They’ve been on the road since February and figure they might be home by Christmas! At 3 p.m. we finally left the area to visit Hopewell Rocks, where all the promotional photos for New Brunswick are taken.

Once again we lucked out on the tides. We thought we might be disappointed since we were three hours past low tide, but it turned out to be very interesting since we could see the tide coming in fast while we still got to walk amongst the “flowerpots” as the formations are called. Plus, since it was relatively late in the day, there were far fewer folks around. This is the biggest tourist attraction in New Brunswick and we’ve been told it can be oppressively crowded. We spent a good couple of hours checking everything out and taking way too many photographs. A little blue sky would have been nice, but I was thankful for the coolness the cloud cover provided. We have found the afternoon sun here to be surprising harsh. It is really hot and requires lots of sunscreen protection.

After enjoying the rocks, we pressed on into Nova Scotia. When we found cell coverage in Moncton, we called another farm that offers free camping near the shore of the Northumberland Sound in Northport. An hour later Melanie and Charlie welcomed us warmly, even inviting us in for some wine. We deferred to coffee in the morning since it was 9 p.m. and we hadn’t eaten our dinner yet.

Party cloudy, sporadic sun, warm temperatures. 119 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 27, 2012

Walking on the ocean floor

Al cooked me breakfast to order for my birthday. Two soft boiled eggs, half a blueberry muffin, cantaloupe and coffee were on the menu. He even did the dishes too!

For lunch we went to the local lobster shack and, as much as I hate to tell you this, the lobsters up here really are noticeably tastier and of a more appetizing texture than anything I’ve had in Rhode Island or Maine. We figure it must be the extremely cold and clean (due to the radical tides washing in and out every day) waters. I had cold lobster meat on top of a salad of mixed greens with blueberries, almonds, and a bit of feta cheese.

They claim to have the highest tides in the world here at over 36 feet, so we definitely wanted to experience that personally. At low tide we went on an ocean floor walk with a park ranger. Anna taught us all about the unique tides here on the Bay of Fundy. She also took us out to where the tide was coming in to view and learn about the creatures who manage to live on and under the rocks exposed twice every day at low tide. As the tide approaches shore it can rise as much as a vertical inch a minute – that’s 5-feet an hour! We thoroughly appreciated this experience and even stayed out a bit longer on our own.

We rode our bikes around this surprisingly charming little town, ate dinner, and then attended a really terrific concert of local contemporary Acadian music at the park’s outdoor amphitheater, which was a 5-minute bike ride from our campsite 

I’d say it was a pretty nice way to spend my birthday.

Partly cloudy and warm. 0 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 26, 2012

Deeper into the Bay of Fundy Experience

We were up before the sun to catch the first ferry back to the mainland. In fact, we were the first in line, arriving at the terminal before the gates were even open. Since we’d had a couple of trailer hitch scrapes boarding other ferries, we checked the tides for this one and made sure we crossed when the tide was high so the boarding ramp would be level. This planning worked out well.

Drove to St. John (New Brunswick) to provision, do a bit of business, fill up the diesel tank, and get a Canadian SIM card for my cell phone. It was a bit of a shock to be in a big shopping mall after so much time in the natural world, but it was also nice to have everything we needed all in one place. We even lucked into a healthy lunch spot so I got a relatively rare break from food fixin’.

Once we got everything done we got back on the road heading towards St. Martins on the Bay of Fundy coast. We had a bit of start when we came up on a covered bridge with a sign stating it had just 4 meters clearance. We did some very quick math and decided our 12+ foot height was probably OK, but I go out to watch just in case. We made it with a few inches to spare and I was glad we did because we had gone 50 miles out of our way, on a pretty lousy road, to experience the Fundy Trail Parkway.

Per the brochure, “this magnificent parkway traverses a rugged section of what has been called the only remaining coastal wilderness between Florida and Newfoundland.” The 11 km parkway has a dozen viewpoints and an adjacent hiking/biking trail. I had envisioned riding some of the trail on our bicycles, but it turned out to be much too mountainous and rough for us. It was a delightful 3-hour experience anyway as we took several brief side hikes to view waterfalls, a suspension bridge, geologic formations, and panoramic vistas. At the Salmon River Interpretive Center we learned that William Randolph Hearst once owned a logging and lumber company here as a material source to print his newspapers on. There is even a “cabin-on-steroids” he built that guests with advance reservations can spend the night in for $99. You can’t go there or even see it unless you stay there and I was sort of wishing I had planned that into our itinerary. The natural beauty of this area is striking.

Anyway, we then drove down more terrible roads to set-up camp at the Fundy National Park near Alma. After a very long day, we arrived with just enough time and energy to consume a quick dinner of leftover Grand Manan scallops and hit the sack early.

Partly cloudy. Cool morning to warm afternoon and evening. 223 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 25, 2012

Grand Manan to Whitehead Island and back

Rain and fog cleared and another beautiful morning greeted us. Today we visited the very charming Grand Manan Museum to learn a little local history before taking a free ferry ride out to nearby Whitehead Island where we hiked to another lighthouse and an interesting beach.

Back on Grand Manan we took another hike before enjoying a very nice dinner out at McLaughlin’s in a historic wharf area of Seal Cove. Going to bed early so we can catch an early ferry back to the mainland.

Picture perfect sunny and breezy day. Gorgeous evening and sunset. 35 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 24, 2012

More explorations on Grand Manan Island

Early morning thunderstorms promoted a late sleep in and lazy breakfast. Laundry and time on our computers filled the rest of the morning as the skies cleared. Well, not actually, as fog hung around all day.

After lunch we took haRVy out to explore more of the island. We drove to the west side to see Dark Harbor, an apparent haven for the aforementioned dulse harvesting. The shoreline of the nearly fully enclosed bay was lined with locally designed and built skiffs. A tall natural breakwater, just visible in the distance was strewn with huge driftwood logs and what appeared to be occupied shacks. Can’t imagine what it is like to be out there when the waves are tossing all that stuff around and near your house. As the fog rolled in and out we snapped many photos.

We then drove to the southernmost tip to Southern Cross Light where we took a hike and more foggy photos.

Back to camp for a laid back quiet evening. Al was going to take me out to dinner, but the one nice place we wanted to go was already fully booked so we made reservations for tomorrow night when we will celebrate my birthday a little early.

Thunderstorms in morning. Fog all day. Temps in 60’s and 70’s. 35 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 23, 2012

Enjoying Castalia Marsh Retreat and beyond

It was nice to have the ocean horizon as my drishti this morning while practicing yoga in the “gathering place” here on the property. My body was clearly pleased to stretch out after being in our small mobile home for a week.

We packed a picnic lunch and headed out on the bikes to explore a nearby park on the marsh and a local family dulse business. Locals buy dulse by the shopping bag full and eat it “like potato chips.” We tried several samples of various types of seaweed and purchased a small back of dulse flakes to put on our salads.

Dulse processing is about as simple as can be. Pick it off the rocks in the intertidal zone – dry it on rocks spread out across your yard for 6 to 8 hours and bag it up! Not much infrastructure needed to get into this business. Grand Manan supposedly provides the best dulse available and ships it around the to be sold primarily in health food stores.

You just gotta love a place that still uses a hand drawn map for tourists!

This afternoon Al helped James, the retreat’s owner, trim several tree branches from the drive to make it easier for our tall vehicle and others to gain entry.

Sunny & windy. 0 miles

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