Posted by: sunnyharvy | September 14, 2012

Love at first sight

Today we fell in love…with Victoria, Prince Edward Island (PEI). We came upon this charming little town in less than an hour after arriving on Prince Edward Island via the incredible 8 mile/13 km bridge across the Northumberland Strait. By the way, that bridge wasn’t built until 1997, which is why PEI retains much of its charm.

Victoria has everything one could want within three or four square blocks of mostly heritage architecture. A lighthouse, a chocolate factory, a couple small lodging establishments, a few eateries, a pub, a potato chip purveyor, a live theater, a bookstore, and a sprinkling of fine craft galleries. It faces a bay that totally empties of water at low tide so you can walk for hours on the sandbars. And, it is surrounded by fertile farmland. Is this heaven or what?

On top of all that, the people here are incredibly friendly and helpful. In the first little shop we entered, we met Ben, who seems to be the local “mayor.” After speaking (mostly listening) with/to him for a half an hour or so, he invited us to boondock at the municipal parking lot next to the wharf (yet another waterfront camping spot for free!). He even left the public restrooms unlocked overnight for us. How could we say not to such an invitation since we had no idea where were going to camp out? Besides, we were more than happy to spend more time here, especially with a farmer’s market and the annual chocolate festival occurring right down the street tomorrow! This all seems just too incredible, doesn’t it?

Tonight we dined at the local family owned Landmark Cafe after several people recommended we do so. Taking advantage of the local bounty, Al enjoyed a dinner of scallops and my appetizer was a huge bowl of steamed mussels…yumm.

Abundant sunshine and warm – up to 78 degrees. 68 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | September 13, 2012

Wayne’s world

OK, so the trains weren’t so distant after all. It turns out that there is a railcar switching yard nearby and several cars apparently needed switching late last night. It was interesting… especially since we couldn’t figure out exactly what the noise was for a while. Luckily neither of us lost much sleep over it and we were up bright and early so Wayne and his crew could work on our projects.

Wayne’s “lower 40” where we boondocked overnight

Turns out that Wayne is a pretty interesting guy. He was an Olympic weightlifter in the 70’s and has a bit of a different outlook on life than most. He definitely believes in giving back as he has constructed several welded monuments to charitable organizations. His “tree of life” that commemorates loved ones lost to cancer sits in downtown Truro. A prototype of the tree also sits in his yard.

He does good work at reasonable rates too. Al’s reinforced bike and kayak rack was done and paid for by 1:30 and we were back on the road through scenic Wentworth Valley and on to Amherst. We splurged on a night at a full service RV park because we were in need of a pumpout and showers. This type of place is not our preference, but many of the smaller campgrounds and provincial parks are already closed for the season.

One of our neighbors tonight

Yet another beautiful sunset. We’ve had more than our share on this trip.

Sunny, windy & warm. 64 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | September 12, 2012

The sun is back!

Last night proved to be one of our quietest ever as not one single car came past after dark.

This morning we headed further west along the coast toward Halifax. The air was totally still as we drove past multiple lakes and bays displaying beautiful reflections on their glassy surfaces.

We turned north to go to Truro where Al wants to get some welding done at a shop recommended by our Colorado traveling friends Keith and Cheryl.

Wayne Smith of Wayneco Welding seems like a great guy. We are boondocking in his “lower 40” field tonight, so they can work on the project tomorrow morning. Except for the sound of distant train horns, it is surprisingly quiet here in this urban setting.

While in this full service city, we took advantage of the local library, the laundromat, and the propane supplier. Truro has a compact downtown area with everything you need within walking distance. The town also has some interesting historical architecture too. We probably would not have stopped here under other circumstances, but we rather enjoyed the afternoon.

Gloriously sunny and warm with temps in the mid-70’s. 119 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | September 11, 2012

Staying out Leslie’s way

Yesterday we awoke to the cry of loons on the river, cloudy skies, and building breezes. We headed towards the southern end of Cape Breton Island in hopes of shortening our exposure to the effects of a cold front that is predicted to meet up with tropical storm Leslie later today or tomorrow.

The rain began in earnest in the early afternoon. We continued driving until conditions proved uncomfortable. Around 4 o’clock we pulled off the highway and parked at a small adjacent hospital to see how things developed.

We decided to stay put as long as necessary after the 6 o’clock news called for flooding rains until midnight followed by winds up to 120 kph. We were happy to be situated high and dry and clear of large trees. We ended up staying overnight and even had breakfast in the cafeteria. Thank you, Strait Richmond Hospital for being so gracious.

It rained really hard all night and we are happy to report that haRVy kept us warm and dry.

Once the winds abated (somewhat), we took off again, but the rain and wind soon increased once more. We took some time off the road to grocery shop in Port Hawksbury, where I felt like a kid in a candy store…kale, chard, bok choy – hurray! I am feeling mixed emotions about being back in civilization, but it sure is nice to have access to fresh produce and more healthy foods again. Most of the roads are considerably better too, but there is of course, more traffic. Everything is a trade-off.

The rain stopped and the sun began to shine, but the winds continued to be bothersome. We crossed the Canso Causeway from Cape Breton to Nova Scotia and stopped for lunch in Antigonish. To escape the northerly winds, we decided to head towards the southern shore on Route 7. With the winds at our backs we enjoyed sunshine across rolling hills, farmlands, and waterways. The rivers are all raging from the tremendous amount of rain and the lakes are obviously over their usual levels with many docks and fields underwater.

The coastal portion of this afternoon’s drive was, “like Maine but more” – more islands, more trees, and more bays. At day’s end we pulled off the highway onto Coopers Road near Tangier and parked at the end of the road next to the bay where we, once again, were treated to a beautiful sunset and the cry of loons.

We have managed to keep good attitudes over the past few days as we made travel decisions based on Leslie’s advance northward. In the end we are really glad we got out of Newfoundland where the storm made landfall this morning. The next few days are predicted to be gorgeous here and we look forward to moving on in more favorable conditions.

Cloudy, windy, rainy, sunny, warm. 154 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | September 9, 2012

Goodbye Newfoundland, hello again Nova Scotia

The crossing was smooth and sleeping in the recliner seats not too awful. We arrived in North Sydney, Nova Scotia at 8 am and proceeded to the nearest MacDonalds to get a weather update on their WiFi, change clothes and cook breakfast (no egg mcmuffins for us). Looks like we could be in for 2 to 3 days of wind and rain, but Leslie’s effects are not predicted to be severe.

Since it wasn’t raining yet, we drove out to the Louisbourg National Historic Site where we thoroughly enjoyed this recreation of the French Settlement that stood on the site in the mid-18th Century. The construction (25 years in the making) is a marvel, the re-enactors informative and entertaining, and the authentic lunch delicious.

The lack of sleep caught up to us by mid-afternoon so we made our way to the Mira River Provincial Park and gratefully tucked ourselves into haRVy’s comfortable bed for the night.

Cloudy and foggy, warm. Ferry ride plus 71 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | September 8, 2012

Getting ahead of Leslie

Returning from my photo walk this morning a local pulled up in his car and said, “Enjoying a lovely spot are ya?” At least that’s what I think he said as his accent was thick and his teeth few.

We have found the people of Newfoundland extraordinarily friendly. Last night there was a gathering at the nearby community center and one of the attendees walked over to haRVy and invited us to join them. They were celebrating a recent wedding with a potluck, music and storytelling (a favorite pastime here). Here we are bumming a free place to stay in their neighborhood and they welcome us with open arms. We found this to be true all across the province, nearly to a person.

Have you been wondering what’s inside all those sheds? Looks like a “man cave” to me!

Heading a bit further east on Route 470 (once again to the end of the road and back) we were astounded by more beautiful bays, coves, and ponds surrounding charming outports. These towns were not connected by road until the 60’s and electrified in the 70’s. Al just couldn’t stop saying, “Look at that!” We drove in and out of every little narrow, bumpy road as Al has gotten accustomed to the sport of driving here. The only stone lighthouse in Canada, at Rose Blanche, afforded us a beautiful coastal hike.

It was 4 o’clock, but Al didn’t want to stop exploring on this, our last full day here so we headed back west to Cape Ray where some folks we spoke with earlier said they saw whales today. No whale viewing for us, but we did enjoy a lovely walk along the rocky shore and a beautiful view during dinner.

My videographer at work

The weather radio predicted gale winds for noon tomorrow so we decided to high tail it to the ferry terminal for the midnight sailing rather than risk the chance of getting stuck here for up to 3 days as effects from Hurricane Leslie are predicted to stir things up further on Tuesday.

The incredible scenery in Newfoundland is endless. One would need a lifetime to see it all. We feel we took in as much as possible in the five weeks we visited.

Cloudy to sunny & warm, back to cloudy. 89 miles

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