Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 22, 2012

On to Grand Manan Island

We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and a view worthy of a paid camp site. We are here for free – that’s Boondocking at its best and we are getting used to it! I took a morning walk around the ferry dock area, which is surprisingly scenic.

We boarded the first morning ferry to Grand Manan at 9:30 am. After just 90 minutes aboard we arrived in North Haven where we visited another beautiful lighthouse that required an interesting hike to reach.

Did a bit more sightseeing and shopped for fresh provisions at the local market before checking in at the Castalia Marsh Retreat. I cannot adequately describe this most unusual place, so I suggest visiting their website to take a look around. The owner (definitely an ex-hippie) has spent the past 18 years constructing funky cabins, yurts, and other structures on his marsh-side land. He also has a few tent camping sites and one for a small trailer or RV such as ours. While not for everyone, this place suits us perfectly. We settled in and enjoyed a toast with champagne our friend Claudia gave us before we left home.

First time we ever connected to hook-ups on a tree!

Took a sunset walk out through the marsh to the beach at low tide after our dinner of Grand Manan scallops stir fried with fresh veggies and quinoa.

Cool morning, warm, windy afternoon, perfect evening. 28 miles plus ferry ride

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 21, 2012

Beautiful Campobello Island and a bit of a scare

This morning we took our host Peter’s official “Campobello Island Sights” tour that he operates twice daily from the Roosevelt Park visitor center. We visited more lighthouses, beaches, scenic vistas, and hiking trails. Along the way Peter provided interesting narrative. His tour really opened our eyes to how much more there is to do on Campobello Island than many realize. We also watched a movie about FDR’s connections to the island and toured the cottage he summered in as a child and later with Eleanor.

After being on Campobello for little over 24 hours, I understand why so many American’s own summer homes here. It is a lovely and peaceful island with little commercial development and very friendly folks.

Later in the afternoon we boarded a funky little ferry to East Island, drove across the island to board a second ferry to the New Brunswick mainland.

We’d been looking or ice cream for days. Apparently Down East Mainers don’t appreciate the stuff as we couldn’t find an ice cream shop to save our lives. We mentioned this to a fellow ferry passenger and he directed us to McKay’s where they offer fresh blueberry sundaes – our first serious indulgence. While there we ran into a retired Salve Regina professor on his way to his summer home on Prince Edward Island.

Afterwards haRVy wouldn’t start! Were we being punished for our indulgence? Here we were right next to noisy Route 1 in a very dusty parking lot with lots of traffic…ugh. The possibility of having to “camp” here for a few days was horrifying.

This computer glitch or “Start Error,” as it says on the dashboard has occurred twice before, so we thought we knew how to reset it. Unfortunately, several tries did not produce the desired result and we spent the next several hours using the blueberry stand owner’s phone to reach the Westy mechanic guru and the owner who helped us with this problem before. We received a suggestion to disconnect the battery, turn the key on, and reconnect the battery while the key is live.

The bad news is that to get the tools Al needed to do the job, we had to gain access to the back doors and that required taking the kayaks down. Oh well, we’ve got nothing but time on this trip, right?

Good news is that it worked! We were on the road again just before dark. Much relieved to be out of there, but apprehensive about how often we might have to deal with this problem.

We finally arrived at the empty ferry dock in Blacks Harbour at 10:30, found a nice quiet parking spot and called it a night.

It seems impossible that we left home just a few days ago. We’ve done and seen so much in that time. We are both already getting used to this lifestyle and feeling quite relaxed, even when we were broken down. Al says he feels like a kid again doing what he wants to do when he wants to do it!

Cool morning – warm, sunny afternoon – cool evening. 37 miles and 2 ferry rides

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 20, 2012

WAY Down East

Awoke to another stunningly beautiful morning. So gorgeous in fact that Al decided to spread the yoga mat on our picnic table to do his stretches and exercises outside rather than in bed as he usually does.

We thoroughly enjoyed staying here for two nights, but it’s now time to move on. Al packed up all our toys (bikes, kayaks & accoutrements) last night so this morning after breakfast we pumped out, filled our water tanks, took showers and headed to the local Internet Café/General Store/Visitor Info Center. This place, out here in the middle of nowhere, was a veritable hub of activity. It would have been fun to hangout and just watch and listen for a day. Before long we would have known about everything occurring within a 100 mile radius. Conversely, we just had a cup of coffee and downloaded our email.

We drove towards Lubec and the Canadian border to visit the easternmost point of land in the continental United States at Quoddy Head State Park and lighthouse. Together Al and I have now visited the southernmost (Key West), westernmost (Washington State) and easternmost. All that’s left is the northernmost in Minnesota. Not sure if I will put that on my bucket list though.

We crossed the Canadian border onto Campobello Island without incident. We called a local contact from BoondockersWelcome.com and a very personable gentleman came right down to meet us and lead us back to his house, where we camped in his front yard. Boondockers are RVers who look for places they can camp for free and this website now lists RV owners who welcome others to stay on their property. This particular one is a real find. Peter and his wife Beatrice own a local tour guide company so I don’t have to study brochures to figure out what we want to do here…bonus!

At the time of today’s evening low tide they took us out to the East Quoddy Head lighthouse (the light earlier today in Maine was West Quoddy Head). The tide must be low to access the light. To do so we hiked over rocks, across beaches, up and down 3 staircases, and over a bridge. It was well worth the hike, plus we were happy to get the exercise. This lighthouse, like so many others, has been saved by volunteers who work constantly (weather permitting) to restore and maintain the property.

The maximum tide differential here is over 26 feet! So far these radical tides have worked in our favor – first for kayaking and tonight for our lighthouse hike. We are only here until tomorrow afternoon, so we could very well have missed this opportunity. Even our hosts have only been out there twice this season.

Another stellar day – cool morning, warm afternoon, cool evening, multitudinous starry night. 29 Miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 19, 2012

Our first zero miles day

Dawn brought cool clear weather, which is such a relief after so much hot and humid weather at home this summer. HaRVY got to stay put today, but we sure didn’t. I headed out early on my bike to cycle around the campground for exercise and photo ops while Al slept in a bit longer and did his usual stretching routine in the bunk.

Bob’s Red Mill pancakes with real maple syrup, yogurt, fruit and nuts followed as we listened to Mozart. We haven’t had a lot of music so far, and classical is extremely rare for us, but it perfectly suited our setting here in these majestic woods.

This campground is amazing, the best I’ve ever visited (at least so far). The brochure says it is “ideal for the camper seeking solitude and beautiful scenery” and that’s no lie. It is surrounded on three sides by the salt waters of Cobscook Bay and virtually all the sites are secluded so you can’t see anyone else. Many (like ours) are located at the water’s edge providing excellent vantage points to observe the ebb and flow of the tides.

 Speaking of which, we had to wait for the tide to come in before we could launch our kayaks, which we did by sliding them down a steep dirt chute right from our campsite. The tidal range here is 20-feet, so you need to know when the tides are before venturing out as you could get swept out to sea or stuck in the mud for up to 6 hours. We had a great paddle in nearly ideal conditions. We had a bit of wind to paddle against for awhile, but the scenery was well worth it. Nobody else was in sight for as far as we could see, just a few lobster boats at anchor. This must be heaven.

We returned to our campsite for lunch and a bit of R&R. Later in the afternoon we got back on our bikes to tour the rest of the campground. Grilled Mahi Mahi, pesto pasta, fresh snap peas and organic pear wine from Shalom Farm hit the spot before we hit the pillows for a well-deserved night’s sleep.

Picture perfect weather from low 60’s in morning to mid-70’s most all day. Cool evening. 0 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 18, 2012

Enjoying the natural world

A wide variety of beautiful bird songs awoke us. I took my bowl over to the raspberry canes and picked enough for both of us to enjoy with our cereal.

Drove to a nearby coastal hike at the Petite Manan Nature Preserve. The Hollingsworth Trail took us along granite ledges through cedar swamps and forests with a beautiful ocean cove as a reward at the end. The uneven surfaces proved a bit challenging so we felt well exercised by the time we finished a couple of hours later.

Had lunch ocean side before heading further Down East to Cobscook Bay State Park where we claimed the best camp site, took showers, and had a relaxed dinner. It is very quiet here with no electricity, cell coverage, or WiFi.

Mosquitos are a bit of a problem again, but not as bad as last night’s fiasco. Plus we’re getting a better handle on proper preventive measures.

Warm morning, hot day, warm evening. 92 miles

Posted by: sunnyharvy | July 17, 2012

The long haul to serenity…sort of

 Day two began with Buzz cooking us scrambled eggs for breakfast. He and Marnie were great hosts. It would have been enjoyable to spend more time with them, but we were on a mission to head north and east, so we were “on the road again” just after Boston rush hour traffic.

After several uneventful hours on major highways we headed off “Down East” to Franklin, Maine where we stayed with “Harvest Hosts” at the Shalom Organic Orchard & Winery. Harvest Hosts is an online organization where farms and wineries register to invite “Boondockers” (RV owners in search of free places to camp) to stay on their property.

Upon arrival a farm apprentice showed us where to park our rig and gave us a quick rundown on the farm’s orchards, veggie gardens, and livestock (sheep). Then it was onto the “winery” for a tasting of their fruit wines. We were pleasantly surprised to find that most were quite tasty and not too sweet. We decided to purchase a bottle each of Pear Wine and Cranberry Cyser (like cider) after also trying blueberry, kiwi, and apple.

 We paired our Cranberry Cyser with a delicious (previously prepared by Chef Chris) meal of sweet & spicy chili chicken, fresh steamed veggies, and quinoa. For dessert we enjoyed raspberries picked here today with yogurt.

 We were just settling in to a long relaxing evening when the mosquitos attached! At first we tried to delude ourselves into believing it was just one or two, but they quickly multiplied into dozens. We had our screens engaged, but quickly discovered which ones were not doing their job and got those closed quickly. By then there were at least 30 or 40 of the buzzing menaces flying around in our mini abode. We thought we were doomed. Then I remembered that I had stashed an Off Clip-On gismo, which I rapidly assembled and switched on. With that going and Al armed with a fly swatter and spray bottle of Off Family Care the battle began. Soon we found the buggers literally dropping like flies, so we squished them one-by-one to make sure they were truly dead. Soon we had dozens of little black spots in the sink and nothing flying around trying to bite us. When all was said and done each of us suffered just 2 or 3 bites. Thank goodness!

 The really good news is that it is cool tonight. It seems like weeks since I last felt a cool breeze on my skin….ahhhh!

Hot and sunny afternoon with cool evening thunder showers. 293 mile

 

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